Pet grooming guide

Grooming is a very important aspect in any dog’s health. It is done because of the following reasons: it improves the skin and coat condition of your pet, it decreases chance of skin problems in the future like thrush and scratches, it affects the general cleanliness of your dog, it allows any owner to do a routine check-up of his dogs health by carefully observing if it has any cuts, swelling or abnormal change in temperature, lastly it creates a bond between owner and pet.

One of the most vital tools for pet grooming to ever take place is a dog’s hair brush. In as much as we humans are very picky of our own combs and brushes; we should also do the same thing with our beloved pets. The kind of brush which we will choose will greatly affect their health condition, especially their coats health and shine.

Dogs come in different shapes and sizes thus the best dog hair brush also varies from one type of dog to another. You should look for the brush that acts both as a massager and old hair remover. You would not want your dog suffering the agony of everyday grooming simply because the hair brush lacks the soft bristles. Everyday dog brushing should be something that your dogs should look forward to each day. You will know if the brush you selected is the best dog hair brush if your pet behaves comfortably as you softly brush its coat. Otherwise, if the mere sight of the brush sends your pet away then you need no words to understand that it is not the best dog hair brush for him.

So next time you decide on treating your dog to the best grooming day of its life, make sure that you have the most efficient dog hair brush. Take some time in comparing the different dog brushes in the market today and ask your veterinarian for expert advise in the future.

Though they don’t begin to compete with the sheer numbers of cats, dogs and rabbits that are kept as pets, birds are still a popular option for many. By far the most popular pet bird is the budgie but cockatoos, parrots, canaries, quails and all sorts of other exotic birds are also kept as pets.

Before you buy a bird you will need to do a lot of research into bird care. Though they need different types of pet grooming to other, furry, pets it is still important to groom them. Birds which originate in tropical climes are pre-conditioned to bathe when it rains. In the wild they would purposely get wet when it rains (either by using the falling rain or water in puddles) and use the water to groom their feathers, keeping the feathers shiny and in good condition. It is therefore important that you give these birds plenty of opportunities for bathing either by providing a bird bath or a mister. Another aspect of bird grooming is nail clipping. This is important as otherwise the nails will become overgrown which will make is harder for the bird to perch in its cage and also more likely that the nails will become caught in your clothes or on soft furnishings.

As well as the initial expense of buying a bird (some of which can be extremely expensive) you will also need to buy a bird house. This will vary in size and style depending on the type and number of birds that you decide to get as companions. It is best to try and buy the largest cage possible for the space that you have available as the more space that your pet has, the happier it will be. Remember that once you have added bird feeders, baths and that useful pet grooming device, a cuttlebone, that the space will be smaller.

Bird supplies can be bought from most pet shops and from hundreds of online stores. You can also get lots of advice on the type of bird to buy and what sort of equipment is required to care for your bird properly and how to do things such as trim their flight wing feathers so that they can’t fly around the home or hurt themselves in their bird home. There are also many more people providing services, such a mobile pet grooming, for birds which will help you with any aspect of bird care that you are unsure of.

When choosing a guinea pig you need to consider the fact that they can live for up to 10 years, though the average is more like five to seven years. Though they are relatively easy to care for, a guinea pig cage needs to be quite large and, as they are sociable animals, you should probably get 2 (though rabbits also make good companions for them).

Guinea pigs don’t need too much pet grooming and how often you groom them is dependent on whether you have a long or short haired breed. Short haired guinea pigs will only need brushing somewhere between every few days to once per week, while long haired breeds will need daily combing to ensure that their coat doesn’t become matted. All breeds will require more brushing during the moulting season to help remove loose dead hair. A small, stiff brush and a comb are the only tools required. Start up at the neck region and move slowly down to the rump, following the lie of the coat. Use your fingers to gently loosen any knots and then comb out the remaining mat. It is completely unnecessary to bath a guinea pig and the process would cause them a great deal of stress.

Another important aspect of guinea pig care is nail clipping. If left to themselves guinea pig nails can become very long and start to curl under and dig into their feet. As most pet guinea pigs spend the majority of their time in wooden hutches or on grass there is little opportunity for nails to wear down naturally. However, nail clipping is an easy procedure and can be carried out at home during your regular pet grooming. You can use human nail clippers to do the job or else cat clippers work just as well. Hold your pet with its rear end against your stomach, so that it can’t try to back away, and then firmly hold its paw in one hand. Use the clippers to cut the nail to just above the quick. This is easy to see on light coloured nails but you may have to use your judgement on dark nails. You should try and cut the nails once a month as, if you leave it too long, the quick itself begins to lengthen which means that you have to allow the nails to stay long. If you accidentally clip the quick and it begins to bleed then hold a cotton wool ball to the affected nail until the bleeding stops. It is also possible to buy powders that stem bleeding by causing clotting from most pet stores.

While following your pet grooming routine keep an eye out for any skin problems or lice.

How to clip your dog’s nails.

Nail clipping is a very important pet grooming routine that needs to be carried out a couple of times per month. If you don’t clip the nails then your dog could start to suffer from in-growing toenails and infection, which would then require expensive medical treatment.

A dog’s nails should be long enough to just about reach the ground but without making a clicking sound as they walk.
Start by purchasing some specialist dog nail clippers from a pet store. They will be able to give you good advice on what to look for and how to use them.

Trim a very small piece from the end of the nail and keep trimming until you can see the quick of the nail (this will be the pink bit on a dog with white nails but you will need to look more carefully on dogs with dark nails as the quick can be difficult to see). Once the quick has been seen then use a nail file to smooth the edges.

If you do accidentally cut the quick then be warned, it can bleed quite a lot. Use some cotton wool to stem the flow and then leave any clot that has formed.

Don’t forget the claw that is slightly up the back of the dog’s leg, though this will need trimming during pet grooming much less often as it doesn’t get worn down very much.

How to get rid of ticks.

Ticks are a severe irritation to animals as they cause redness, swelling and itching. It is very important to make tick removal a regular part of your pet grooming routine as, as well as the above mentioned problems, they also introduce harmful bacteria into your pet. When removing a tick it is very important that, as well as the body, the head is also removed.

There are a lot of myths surrounding the removal of ticks from animals, such as covering it in petroleum jelly to stop it breathing or holding a hot needle to it to make it withdraw its head. These methods are more likely to cause the tick to release more bacteria into the wound.

It is very important that, when removing the tick, you don’t squeeze the body at all as this will push the bacteria into your pet. For this reason you need to start with the appropriate pet grooming equipment for the job. Proper tick removers are a better option than tweezers which may squeeze the body if you are not very skilled!

The tick needs to be grasped right where its head is entering your pet (this way you won’t accidentally squeeze the body) and pulled straight out. Do not twist as you pull unless you are using a special tool that specifically tells you to twist.

The final part of this pet grooming process must be to check that the head is completely out and to then apply plenty of anti-septic lotion.

A horse’s mane is one of its most important features, one that everyone will notice. If it looks straggly, unkempt and dirty then it will detract from any good characteristics that the horse may have. Conversely, if you follow a strict pet grooming regime on the mane, then your horse can always look at its most beautiful.

Aiming to brush the mane at least once a day is good horse care and this way you won’t need to put in much effort as it will always be at a reasonably high level of condition. Start by hand picking out any grass, burrs or twigs and then run your fingers through the mane to find any tangles which hopefully you will manage to tease out.

Specialist mane combs have large, widely spaced teeth which will minimise any damage to the hair. Start your horse gooming at the tips of the mane, gently combing out any tangles, and gradually move higher and higher to the base of the mane. When all snags have been removed carefully brush down from the skin at the base of the mane all the way to the tips. This brushing will help to remove any build up of dirt or oil and will help to produce a lovely shine.

The frequency of washing during pet grooming will depend a lot on the season and your horse itself. If you leave too long between washes then the horse may become itchy and start to rub. This will make the mane tangled, break the hairs and may even cause bald patches. During warm weather try to do a good clean every 1 to 3 weeks with a pet shampoo and rinse after any workouts. Washing helps to reduce any oil build-up and removes harmful bacteria from the skin. If bacteria aren’t removed then they can cause skin infections that require veterinary attention. After shampooing and rinsing through add a conditioner which will help to make tangles easier to get out and will make the mane shiny and thicker looking. Some horse conditioners need rinsing out after application while others can be left in.

When the weather becomes colder you will not want to make your horse wet but luckily there are a variety of dry shampoos on the market which can still kill the bacteria and remove oil. These don’t need to be rinsed out and so there is no risk of your horse getting a chill.

The final important thing to remember is that though pet grooming is essential to maintain a healthy mane and tail, a good nutritious diet is also vital in producing the luxurious mane that you desire.

Horse hoof care is one of the most vital pet grooming routines in horse care as if the hooves are damaged or unhealthy then you won’t be able to ride your horse. It doesn’t take long to pick out the hooves and should be done at least once a day and preferably before and after riding out. Don’t forget that even if you don’t ride your horse its hooves will still need cleaning out.

The most important tool for this job is a hoof pick which is a hooked instrument which can be used to remove stones, mud and manure that has become imbedded in the hoof. Most horses have been trained to raise their hooves for cleaning if you stand beside them and run your hand down their legs. Ensure that you clean the area around the frog thoroughly as this is where infection is most likely to begin.

Apart from the discomfort and bruising that can occur if a stone becomes lodged in their hoof, the biggest risk from infrequent picking out is that of horse thrush. If left untreated for long enough the thrush will make the horse lame. The bacteria that cause thrush thrive in the warm, moist environment produced by a hoof filled with mud or manure. You will recognise a case of thrush by the nasty smell produced. If the case is only mild then you will be able to use a shop bought lotion to help get rid of it but more severe cases will require a visit by the vet.

When the picking out has been finished then you need to move on to the next pet grooming exercise. This is the dressing of the hooves with a special oil to help increase the amount of moisture in the hoof. By doing this you will help prevent common problems such as cracked hooves, sore feet and loss of shoes.

Every 6-8 weeks you will need to have the horse shod as leaving them on for a long time can cause damage to the hoof and lameness. While the farrier is shoeing the horse ask him to trim the ever growing hooves. This keeps them in good shape and stops the horse from becoming unbalanced, which can lead to lameness. Make sure that you always get an experienced person to perform this procedure and don’t risk damaging your horse by attempting this yourself.

One final pet grooming exercise that people who are showing their horse may carry out is to add a black or clear polish to make a nice, shiny finishing touch.

All these horse accessories can be bought at a local pet store.

How to clean your dog’s ears

Having their ears cleaned is one aspect of pet grooming that many dogs don’t enjoy which, unfortunately, can make it a tricky procedure to carry out. It is very important that you learn to make the experience one that your dog gets pleasure from.

1. First, get your dog into a position where it can’t squirm around too much. Dogs’ ears are very sensitive and you wouldn’t want him to move while you are working and cause damage. A good idea is to get a friend to help by holding onto the dog collar while you are working.
2. Squeeze plenty of the ear cleaner gently into the ear canal, until it starts to overflow. Then feel for the tube of cartilage beneath the ear and rub this to help spread out the ear cleaner. It should make a nice squelchy noise!
3. Massage the ears very gently for 30 to 45 seconds and then give him some space to shake his head to rid his ears of some of the wax, dirt and cleaner that has built up. The massage is something that most dogs love and they will press their head towards your hands to show how much they are enjoying it.
4. Clean cotton balls or medical kit gauze pads are ideal to use to carefully remove any fluid that did not come out when your dog shook his head. Be warned! There can be a lot of wax and dirt in dog ears and it can come in many different colours. If you start to get more than usual or it has turned a bloody or very bright colour then take him to see your vet as it may mean that he has developed an infection. Always use sterile, all natural cotton that is flexible and soft.

How to clean your dog’s teeth.

Taking care of your dog’s teeth on a regular basis at home and considerably reduce the number of times that they will need to be cleaned by a vet.

1. Before starting to clean your dog’s teeth it is important to be completely prepared with all the dog care equipment that is required.
2. There are 2 options for a toothbrush. One is a finger toothbrush that you can place over your finger and the other is a long handled, soft bristled specialist dog toothbrush. Generally they have an angled head to allow easier access. You can buy dog toothbrushes at any store that sells pet grooming supplies.
3. You will need to buy toothpaste that has been specifically made for dogs as they have special plaque controlling enzymes and some fluoride to help control bacteria. Do not use human toothpaste as it contains ingredients which are bad for dogs. Push the paste down between the bristles so that it spends maximum time next to the dog’s teeth.
4. Choose a calm, quiet time and sit in a position that will give you easy access to your dog’s teeth.
5. When you first start to brush his teeth just gently wipe at the teeth with some gauze, gradually moving on to the use of warm water and eventually, toothpaste.
6. Clean around the whole mouth, brushing each tooth in turn. Make sure that you don’t miss out the back dog teeth as this can be a problem area.
7. Dog teeth cleaning should be carried out once a per week as part of your pet grooming routine but still make sure that you visit the vet once a year to have them checked over and, if necessary, cleaned professionally.

Flexible and strong, the horse’s tail is part of his spinal column. It is made up of approximately 18 vertebrae – some horses have more, others have fewer. The bones are progressively smaller from the root of the tail to the tip; the last one is pointed. The best method of pet grooming to maintain a tail’s good looks and function is to keep it clean and in top condition. Unfortunately, though tail skin feels tough and those hairs look impenetrable, the equine tail isn’t immune to injury and disease. But conscientious care can make the difference between lush and scraggly.

Pet grooming the tail generally begins with simply brushing out foreign material, snarls and tangles, sometimes with the aid of a detangling product or a simple hair oil. For pleasure riding, this is all that is usually done. Horses used in exhibition or competition may have far more extensive grooming. However, the tail’s main purpose is fly protection, however, certain types of show grooming can inhibit the use of this natural defence.

Tail banging.
Banging a tail means to cut it off blunt at the bottom. Traditionally horses’ tails were banged to avoid them becoming soiled and straggly at the bottom. Horses ridden dressage will often have their tails banged, but if your horse’s tail is on the short side, banging it may only make it look shorter.
Banging a tail is not just a matter of chopping it off at the bottom. Before you begin pay attention to how high your horse carries its tail while it is trotting. Some horses carry their tails quite high, while other keep their tails flatter. You want the cut to be parallel to the ground while the horse is moving. If you just chop it off while the horse is standing, when the horse is moving the tail will look uneven. The banged tail should end about 4” (10cm) to 5” (12cm) below the hocks. Any shorter may detract from the look of the tail. You may want to mark it with a little piece of masking tape or a chalk mark before you cut. Better to leave the tail too long, than cut it off too short.

Tail clipping.
Sometimes, the sides of the dock are clipped, to a point about halfway down the dock, where the tail “turns over” when the horse is in motion, and the rest of the tail is kept long. This results in a finer appearance, and shows off the horse’s hindquarters. This style of pet grooming is most commonly seen in dressage and at times in eventing. Polo horses played in competition often have their docks trimmed or shaved, and skirt is braided, folded up on the tailbone, and tied off with a lock of hair excluded from the braid, taped, or both.

There are a wide variety of tools available for use when pet grooming your dog, all of which can be bought from local pet stores. The most useful are a curry comb for overall brushing and removal of loose dead hair and skin, a shedding blade to remove coat shed and a de-matting comb to help remove tangles.

Curry comb
Curry combs stimulate your dog’s skin to produce natural oils, which help to keep the fur clean and healthy. Frequent use of a curry comb during pet grooming will ensure a shiny, glossy coat and will also keep the skin clean and healthy too. As well as stimulating the skin, the comb will encourage blood flow and remove flakes of dead skin. If your dog has long hair then the comb can be used to remove tangles and matts, which can be uncomfortable and unhealthy.
The gentlest curry brush is made from rubber or a rubberised material. The rubber is bendable, allowing the comb to flex with the animal’s body.

Shedding blade
A shedding blade is a looped piece of metal with the ends held together by a handle. One side of the blade has small, rounded teeth which catch hold of and remove coat shed and help to minimise the occurrence of matting. Many pet grooming experts recommend getting a shedding blade since it is especially good for keeping dogs with short coats from shedding all over your house. Shedding blades are primarily used in the pet grooming of shorter haired dogs as they are less effective on long haired coats. Always use a light touch when using the blade as it is possible to cause harm to the coat or skin if you press too hard.The first few times you use a shedding blade on your pet, keep a good watch on the dog’s skin. If they seem to show signs of irritation or begin to scratch, you may need a softer brush or a gentler technique with the blade.

De-matting comb
Even regularly brushed dogs develop matts and it’s very important to remove them before they become out of control. There are many styles of de-matting comb or rake and the one you choose will depend entirely on the type of coat that your dog has so, for example, a dog with a thick, curly coat will need a much wider toothed comb than a dog with a long, fine coat. The best method of removing the matts while pet grooming is to put your fingers between the dog’s skin and the matt and to then ease the de-matting comb gently through.

When pet grooming, first secure your horse up and then pick out its hooves. After this you can begin your horse grooming at the poll region on the left side and slowly work back over the whole body. Repeat on the other side. Initially, use a rubber or plastic curry comb (depending on your horse’s coat type) to remove mud and scurf . Then use the body brush and curry comb. Always use a body brush on your horses mane and tail if it is fine or pulled.

A curry comb or grooming mitt.
The purpose of a curry comb is to break up clumps of mud and remove loose hair. It is made from rubber or plastic with short teeth on one side. It is the first of several brushes used when pet grooming a horse’s coat. Use a rubber curry comb on finer, clipped or summer coats, for removing mud, sweat or scurf. They are also good for massaging and removing hairs when losing winter coats. Use the massager sets in a similar way, the one with the spikes for very coarse long winter coats and the finer one for finer, clipped or summer coats. Use plastic curry combs on coarser and winter coats. Plastic curry combs are excellent for brushing off mud and can also be used on thick manes. Don’t use curry combs or massagers on legs or sensitive areas. Metal curry combs are for cleaning the body brush.

A body brush with fairly stiff bristles.
A body brush is wide and flat with a strap across the back and short vegetable fibres. Use this after the curry comb to shine and polish your horse’s coat. The body brush is the main pet grooming brush. It is generally used for cleaning the coat, removing scurf and dust, and for brushing out the mane and tail. The close-set hairs of the brush are designed to reach right through the coat to the skin beneath, lifting and removing dirt and creating a shine. Use brief, circular strokes over the body, finishing each stroke in the direction of the lay of the hair. Use this in conjunction with a metal curry comb – after several strokes of the body brush draw the brush across the teeth of the curry comb to remove the dirt. You could also use a rubber or plastic curry comb to keep your body brush clean.

A mane and tail comb.
Use a wide-toothed plastic or metal comb on horses with short, pulled manes. You can also use the mane comb to pull the mane. Use a dandy brush for long manes and tails. Particularly long manes and tails on show horses are often picked out by hand to avoid breakage of the hairs. Plastic combs cause less breakage than metal ones.

Grooming rag or towel, also called a Stable Rubber.
To give a final polish to a horse’s coat use linen, towelling or comparable type of cloth. You could also use it after a ride to help get rid of sweat.

A hoof pick.
Hoof picks are used by moving downwards from heel to the toe, dislodging anything that has caught on the point of the pick. Next clear the cleft of the frog. Check shoes for any wear or risen clenches. It saves time if you teach your horse to pick up his feet.

A clean sponge or soft cloth.
When brushing your horses head, put his headcollar around his neck but make sure that he is in a place that he can’t move around in very much. Use one hand to keep his head steady and gently brush the face with the other, avoiding eyes and going gently on sensitive areas. Pay plenty of attention to the ears, gullet and lower jaw. Finally gently sponge clean the eyes, and then the muzzle and nostrils. Keep a second sponge for the final phase of pet grooming, to clean round and under the horses dock.

Pet grooming care for your cat’s coat is very important as this aids in the removal of loose and discarded undercoat, prevents hairballs, improves circulation, prevents parasitic infestations, is a good bonding experience and promotes frequent health checks. Different breeds require varying types of grooming. Some need brushing and combing daily, others less often. Most cats spend a large part of their day grooming themselves.

Start getting your kitten used to being groomed from a very young age and slowly increase the amount of time you spend grooming your kitten until it is quite happy to allow you to brush it. Soon the kitten will love being groomed and will come to see it as part of its daily routine. If you approach grooming as a chore then so will your cat.

When you are grooming your cat don’t forget to check its ears, nose, mouth, eyes, nails and feet. It is also a perfect opportunity to check it over for any bumps and lumps. Check the skin by parting the hair, to see if your cat has any skin problems such as fleas or any red, sore or inflamed areas that may require treatment.

A cat’s hair can be short or long with different degrees of coat type within these two types. You will need to give the coats of long haired cats a lot of attention, brushing them at least once every day. Use a wide toothed comb to remove any dead hair. When you find a knot or matt in the fur, separate it with your fingers, gently and slowly from the root up. Try not to resort to scissors, but if you have to cut into the middle of the knot and try to loosen it again by hand. You may have to have a very matted cat shaved by a veterinary surgeon under general anaesthetic or sedation. If you decide that you would like a long haired cat then you need to be completely sure that you are willing to put in the time pet grooming it. Far too frequently these cats have to attend the vet’s because their coats are matted.

You won’t need to spend anything like as long pet grooming a short haired cats as the long haired varieties and you will probably only need to comb the cat thoroughly once a week. Use a short toothed comb or a rubber brush to remove the dead hairs. Some short haired cats have delicate coats and skin so be cautious when using combs and brushes that you are not damaging the cat in any way.

Loosen dead hairs by hand before you begin to use a brush or comb on your cat. Run your fingers through the fur in the opposite direction to the way to the hair grows. This stimulates the skin’s natural oils to give a nice, healthy shine to the fur. After doing this then you can use the pet grooming equipment best suited for your cat’s coat type.

It is really not necessary to bath a cat as, if it has been thoroughly and correctly groomed, the natural oils in the cats fur will always give it a shiny gleam. Bathing a cat will only make matts and knots worse, making the fur totally unmanageable.

If your cat has a specific skin complaint or is suffering with fleas that traditional remedies can’t clear the ensure that you use shampoo that is suitable for your cat’s skin. Use a specific cat shampoo bought from a pet store. These cat shampoos are easier to rinse out and make less lather. Make certain that you wet the coat completely before adding the shampoo.

Pet grooming is an important part of dog care. Frequency of grooming will depend on factors such as age, breed and general health of the dog. Some breeds will need daily grooming while others will require significantly less than this, but regular grooming helps to make sure that the dog is clean, healthy and comfortable. While a lot of dogs shed, others don’t and instead their fur grows much like human hair and therefore needs trimming.

• The length of your dog’s coat will dictate how often he needs to be brushed but long haired dogs will require brushing every day. Brushing helps to keep the fur shiny, clean and free of any matting, which can be a cause of irritation. Most dogs enjoy pet grooming and often eagerly await combing.

• Ensure that your dog’s face is clear of long hairs, which can get in their eyes and cause eye irritations.

• Like humans, dogs can suffer from ear infections, especially when they have floppy ears which cover the ear canal allowing bacteria to breed in the warm, damp environment. If their ears aren’t cleaned regularly then they can suffer from repeated serious ear infections. A healthy ear should look and smell clean. Any discharge or excessive scratching should be investigated immediately.

• Dogs frequently suffer from dental disease and so you will need to check your dog’s mouth and teeth regularly to help you spot any problems before they become serious. Dogs often don’t like the pet grooming involved in brushing and so try at least to check for chips, tartar or excessive wear.

• One of the most difficult pet grooming chores is clipping your dog’s nails. Ensure that you handle a puppy’s feet regularly so that they don’t mind you holding their feet when you cut their nails. It is very important that, even if your dog hates having his nails clipped, you trim them regularly so that they don’t suffer the pain of walking on overgrown or in-growing nails.

• Most dogs will need a bath at least a few times per year, depending on its breed and lifestyle. Bathing helps remove oil, dirt and old hair from the skin. Many dogs enjoy their baths and you can use it as an opportunity to check for fleas and ticks. Dogs that enjoy regular swims in canals, rivers or the sea need to be rinsed after every outing.

• Many dog owners don’t ever check their dog’s bottom but it is important final place to check. Faeces can get caught in the hair around the anus, causing an obstruction. Also, the glands either side of the anus can get blocked and painful and a common sign of this is scooting.

Horses can often become hot and bothered during the winter months, their coats grow long and they find it hard to keep cool. Clipping your horse is considered good horse care and you will help them to regulate their temperature. The most common style of clipping in the winter is blanket clipping but another widespread and highly successful clip is the body clip. Horse body clipping is generally used to help your horse lose its final coat as the summer months approach and keep it neat and tidy.

Before you think about pet grooming by clipping your horse you need to establish why and ultimately what sort of clip you need to give your horse. Clipping ensures your horse remains healthy and comfortable. Make sure you know when you should start clipping your horse and continue to maintain his clip for the correct period of time.

Should I consider pet grooming by clipping or trimming?

If your horse gets too hot during exercise, is overheating or is in danger of becoming chilled while waiting to dry in cold weather you should definitely consider clipping. Some horses and ponies will grow very heavy coats all year round and after the smallest amount of work will break out into a sweat – having a heavy coat then makes it incredibly difficult for them to dry out quickly, clipping these sort of horses or ponies is a must and can be carried out when horse grooming.

Types of body clips include:

Body clip or Full body clip: The horse’s entire body is clipped, including the head and legs. It provides the most “natural” clip, resembling a horse’s normal summer coat, plus it is a relatively straightforward clip for a groom to complete. However, it provides the least amount of natural protection for the horse.

Hunter clip: The entire horse is clipped, except for the legs and a patch of hair under the saddle. This clip traces back to the hunt field, and is still used there today, as it provides extra protection to the back of the horse (essential during several hours of hunting) as well as to the lower legs (which may be cut by brambles), but still allows for the horse to stay cool while galloping.

Blanket clip: This type of clip would suit a horse that has regular exercise, is turned-out in the field and does various events at the weekends. The coat is removed completely from the head, neck and flanks, leaving only an area of hair that looks like an exercise sheet over the back and hindquarters and on the legs. The hair on the legs is left mainly for warmth and protection.

Trace clip: Varies, but generally the horse is clipped from under his throat, down along the jugular groove, and then clipped half-way up the shoulder and belly. Variations include clipping higher along the neck, shoulder, and belly, and clipping a strip off the side of the hindquarter, to the buttock. Additionally, many clip a strip half-way up the cheek to the muzzle. The back and legs are left unclipped. The clip is named after the traces of the carriage, as it follows a similar pattern. The amount of hair removed is based on the work the horse is in, the amount he sweats during work, and the areas where he sweats the most. It is most commonly seen used by eventers.

Chaser Clip: The hair is removed from under the belly upwards between and around the front legs and up a line on the neck, (dependent on how high you require the line to be). This clip and variations are often seen in thoroughbred yards where the horse is unknown or is likely to kick. It is useful on a youngster, which is being clipped for the first time as it does not take as long as the others and is practical.

Strip clip’ or Belly clip: A good pet grooming clip for horses and ponies, which are living out through the winter but which may be used for the odd hack at weekends or during an occasional light evening. Useful for the stabled horse that feels the cold or is involved in light work. It is still necessary to rugged up field kept or stabled horses.

As you can see clippers are essential horse accessories!