Pet grooming guide

Dutch warm bloods are one of the most sought after of all breeds. In the last Olympic games the most strongly represented breed was Dutch WB. One of the most famous in recent years is Judgement ISF of Iron Spring Farm. Over the last years he has won millions on the Jumper circuit. With his rider Beezie Madden he won over 1.5 million dollars. Judgement has been part of ten national cup teams represented the United States.

Dutch warm bloods are known for excelling at Dressage, Jumping, Three Day Eventing, and Driving competition. With larger sizes, generally between 16 and 17 hands tall, substantial bone, and a will to please these horses are some of the most sought after.

One breeding and competition barn in Missouri had a whole collection of different warm blood breeds. With the success of their Dutch horse they decided to phase out other breeds and focus solely on the Dutch WB.

Dressage required elasticity in gate and a tremendous patience for intricate patterns and highly technical performance. Some horses are just not capable of this intensity. One Thoroughbred horse that I knew personally did fine until he reached third level dressage. The need for concentration for flying changes and half passes was too much for him. Even with slow, deliberate training with some top riders this level of dressage was too much for him.

Three Day Eventing is a sport that requires agility and talent not only for dressage, but also for jumping and cross country field jumping. The design of three day eventing is to capitalize on the versatility of a horse. One the first day they must show the grace and beauty of a high quality dressage test. Then on the second day they must be able to covered many kilometers at primarily a canter or gallop while jumping a whole parade of fences. Jumping into water, over huge hay bales, and brightly colored walls is all part of the cross country phase. And on the third day they must jump high fences in the confines of a arena. The jumps are designed to fall when they are touched. Knocked down poles equals penalties. The stadium jumping phase the ride is also timed.

Dutch warm bloods have excelled at all three disciplines. With big hearts, wise minds, and study bodies these horses are some of the top in the world. Dutch warm bloods for sale can be found across the internet and one in particular is listed on horse stalls guide.

A lot of people who want to bring a horse into their life – leasing it or buying it – never stop to ask themselves if it would make more sense to get themselves and their family a pony.

The difference between a pony and a horse is more than just about size. Technically, a pony is any horse that is less than approximately fourteen hands at the shoulder (about fifty eight inches). Like horses, ponies come in a variety of breeds. And with each breed of pony, you find a lot of differentiation in terms of temperament, disposition, willingness to be trained, and so forth.

So should you buy a pony or a horse?

If you are getting the animal primarily for children – even kids who have a lot of experience with equines – you might want to consider a pony. For really young kids – up through, say, six or seven years old, a Welsh pony can be the perfect size. Whereas climbing onto a horse can feel like being on top of a skyscraper, a Welsh is actually the same in size as a young child. They’re far less intimidating.

Many ponies – the Welsh is a good example – are notorious for their stubborness. It reminds some people of mules or donkeys – there is something in the small stature that brings out the attitude. You need to be sure that you are prepared to work with the animal in order to mitigate the effects of their attitude. Do you know how to train them? How to keep them in line?

But once you’ve got them trained a bit, ponies are a great addition to a local farm. They make good backyard horses. The downside, really, is that once your kids outgrow them, the pony can go without socialization or exercise. They like to be worked! They like to be busy, whether it’s working a lunge line in the pen or trotting up a trail. You should have a plan in mind for your pony – whether it’s knowing another family or farm that can put them to healthy use or simply a commitment to working with them even after your kids have outgrown them.

A treeless saddle is that type of saddle for horseback riding that has all parts of the traditional saddle minus the plate to hold together the pommel and the cantle. They are also called close contact saddles because with the exclusion of the plates the rider can feel a horse’s back much more and the horse can also adjust well to the rhythmic movements of his rider guiding the path to where they are going.

One of the popular close contact saddles is the Barefoot treeless saddle which originated in Germany It was created by a horse physiotherapist for the particular purpose of creating a saddle that will not restrict the horse’s movement and allows it to move more freely. The tree is not made up of rigid materials so that the horse can enjoy more freedom when moving. The back of the saddle can bend accordingly and so movements on the sides won’t cause too much stress on the horse’s breast vertebral column.

The Barefoot saddle has perfected its features after many trials and observations on what will work best both for the rider and the horse. Its perfected features has accommodated a wider variety of horses compared to the treed ones since it can fit horses that are very difficult to fit with a saddle due to wider backs or uneven shoulders. Also, the lighter close contact saddle keeps the horse from strains caused by the inflexibility of saddles with plates because they cannot move along the horse’s movements, thus the potential of back pains on the part of the horse. The Barefoot makes the horse calmer when saddled and more comfortable when ridden.

The use of the Barefoot is not restricted to experienced riders. It can also be enjoyed by beginners especially when they want to feel what bareback riding is like, only that while they are in close contact with the horse, they are also securely seated on the saddle.

The most important piece of horse equipment you can get is the saddle. Getting the correct saddle means you have a comfortable ride and the horse does not feel any discomfort. If your horse is not comfortable with the saddle, you will find it difficult to ride the horse. It will become unpredictable, and in the worse case scenario, throw you off. There are two main types of saddles; the English saddle and the Western saddle. The main difference between the English saddle and the Western saddle is there is no horn on the English saddle. Western saddles are usually used on working horses in Western America.

Stirrups hang down either side of the horse and help support your feet. You will feel more comfortable by having your feet held in position in the stirrup. They also have some safety mechanisms that protect you and the horse. If you should fall backwards from your horse, English saddles have safety bars that allow the stirrups to fall away. This stops your feet from being trapped and being carried along by the horse. Western style saddles have coverings on the stirrup feet area to stop your feet sliding through.

Another piece of equipment that needs to be carefully chosen is the headgear that is used to control and communicate with the horse. Some horses will be able to take a bite. This fits in their mouth and is used to control them. Some horses will struggle with this and can manage with only straps around the head. Knowing your horse’s age and temperament will determine what type you decide on. It must not be uncomfortable for the horse and you must feel like you are in control.

These are the essential pieces of horse equipment you need to know about if you and the horse are to be happy with each other. If you understand your horse and you provide it with the right equipment your time in the saddle will be much more enjoyable.

Horseback riding is both a rewarding and exciting experience where man and animal work together. While some enjoy riding without a saddle, or bareback, they are a minority group. Using a saddle fitting both the particular rider and his animal makes the ride safer and more comfortable for both parties.

English and Western saddle units are not one and the same. Each class of saddle has a different size and shape, making measuring and saddle fitting a unique process for each type. To measure an English saddle, calculate the distance between the centre of the cantle at the saddle’s rear to nail at the pummel, or top side. Don’t worry, it’s not your backside that’s being fitted, it’s your thigh. Measure a Western saddle from the pommel straight back to the end of the cantle.

Proper saddle fitting makes sure that the rider and the horse have the most efficient energy use. When the rider and the horse are comfortable, little or no energy is expended to compensate for posture and balance issues. The horse can move properly when the rider is well balanced, having more energy to direct to a longer ride, high speed races, or stunts involving jumps.

Making sure you have a proper saddle for you and your horse is not complicated. Saddles last for many years and are worth the investment of time taken to ensure the best fit. If you have any questions or doubts, talk with someone at your stable or tack shop. Whether you ride horses for leisure, show, or as part of your job, you want be sure that you’ll be comfortable, in correct posture, and using your energy effectively. If a rider is comfortable, a horse is, too, and more work will get done with less discomfort and hassle. Saddle fitting ensures the best possible experience for both you and your horse. Check out prestige saddle or horse saddles.

If you enjoy seeing horses jumping you will get more from the sport by understanding more of the rules and techniques. There are two basic types of jumping events known as show jumping or stadium jumping and cross-country.

In show jumping the horse executes a route around the arena while jumping obstacles of varying height and width.  It is a timed event where limited time is allowed and both horse and rider are judged on their abilities.

In the cross-country event the jumps are set up in the woods and the course must be followed.  There are judges at each jump to grade you and you must complete the course in the allotted time.
Either show jumping or cross-country can be one element of a horse show. For this article we will focus our attention on show jumping.

The following will help you to understand show jumping better. Show jumping is related to the English style of horse show as opposed to the American Western style.    It is done in horse show events worldwide including the Olympics.

Teaching horses jumping techniques requires some skill and patience on the part of the rider. Here is basically how it is done. You will need a cavelletti which is an adjustable height training tool resembling a rail. At first you will set the cavelletti to its lowest level only inches off the ground. You will simply have your horse walk over the cavelletti to improve his balance and coordination.

The next step is to speed your horse to a trot as he crosses over the rail. Do this repeatedly until he feels confident. Balance and coordination are further improved.  He will learn to raise and lower his feet with perfect timing.

Next you speed your horse further to a lope.  Timing will be a little more difficult at the higher speed but practise will continue to build his confidence.

Now raise the cavelletti to around six or eight inches off the ground.  Take your horse through the same pattern of increased speeds at the new height.  Continue to raise the rail about three inches at a time and go through the same speed increases for each new height.  Your horses jumping skill will soon allow jumping full height standard show jumps.

Here is a tip or two for the rider interested in horse jumping.   As you approach the jump raise yourself off the saddle on the balls of your feet maintaining a stable position in the stirrups. Keep your back straight and lean forward. Maintain this position while the horse is in the air and return to your normal riding position when the horse comes down.   It is acceptable to grasp the horse’s mane. It is not painful.

You may also enjoy equestrian horses.

A horse’s mane is one of its most important features, one that everyone will notice. If it looks straggly, unkempt and dirty then it will detract from any good characteristics that the horse may have. Conversely, if you follow a strict pet grooming regime on the mane, then your horse can always look at its most beautiful.

Aiming to brush the mane at least once a day is good horse care and this way you won’t need to put in much effort as it will always be at a reasonably high level of condition. Start by hand picking out any grass, burrs or twigs and then run your fingers through the mane to find any tangles which hopefully you will manage to tease out.

Specialist mane combs have large, widely spaced teeth which will minimise any damage to the hair. Start your horse gooming at the tips of the mane, gently combing out any tangles, and gradually move higher and higher to the base of the mane. When all snags have been removed carefully brush down from the skin at the base of the mane all the way to the tips. This brushing will help to remove any build up of dirt or oil and will help to produce a lovely shine.

The frequency of washing during pet grooming will depend a lot on the season and your horse itself. If you leave too long between washes then the horse may become itchy and start to rub. This will make the mane tangled, break the hairs and may even cause bald patches. During warm weather try to do a good clean every 1 to 3 weeks with a pet shampoo and rinse after any workouts. Washing helps to reduce any oil build-up and removes harmful bacteria from the skin. If bacteria aren’t removed then they can cause skin infections that require veterinary attention. After shampooing and rinsing through add a conditioner which will help to make tangles easier to get out and will make the mane shiny and thicker looking. Some horse conditioners need rinsing out after application while others can be left in.

When the weather becomes colder you will not want to make your horse wet but luckily there are a variety of dry shampoos on the market which can still kill the bacteria and remove oil. These don’t need to be rinsed out and so there is no risk of your horse getting a chill.

The final important thing to remember is that though pet grooming is essential to maintain a healthy mane and tail, a good nutritious diet is also vital in producing the luxurious mane that you desire.

Horse hoof care is one of the most vital pet grooming routines in horse care as if the hooves are damaged or unhealthy then you won’t be able to ride your horse. It doesn’t take long to pick out the hooves and should be done at least once a day and preferably before and after riding out. Don’t forget that even if you don’t ride your horse its hooves will still need cleaning out.

The most important tool for this job is a hoof pick which is a hooked instrument which can be used to remove stones, mud and manure that has become imbedded in the hoof. Most horses have been trained to raise their hooves for cleaning if you stand beside them and run your hand down their legs. Ensure that you clean the area around the frog thoroughly as this is where infection is most likely to begin.

Apart from the discomfort and bruising that can occur if a stone becomes lodged in their hoof, the biggest risk from infrequent picking out is that of horse thrush. If left untreated for long enough the thrush will make the horse lame. The bacteria that cause thrush thrive in the warm, moist environment produced by a hoof filled with mud or manure. You will recognise a case of thrush by the nasty smell produced. If the case is only mild then you will be able to use a shop bought lotion to help get rid of it but more severe cases will require a visit by the vet.

When the picking out has been finished then you need to move on to the next pet grooming exercise. This is the dressing of the hooves with a special oil to help increase the amount of moisture in the hoof. By doing this you will help prevent common problems such as cracked hooves, sore feet and loss of shoes.

Every 6-8 weeks you will need to have the horse shod as leaving them on for a long time can cause damage to the hoof and lameness. While the farrier is shoeing the horse ask him to trim the ever growing hooves. This keeps them in good shape and stops the horse from becoming unbalanced, which can lead to lameness. Make sure that you always get an experienced person to perform this procedure and don’t risk damaging your horse by attempting this yourself.

One final pet grooming exercise that people who are showing their horse may carry out is to add a black or clear polish to make a nice, shiny finishing touch.

All these horse accessories can be bought at a local pet store.

Flexible and strong, the horse’s tail is part of his spinal column. It is made up of approximately 18 vertebrae – some horses have more, others have fewer. The bones are progressively smaller from the root of the tail to the tip; the last one is pointed. The best method of pet grooming to maintain a tail’s good looks and function is to keep it clean and in top condition. Unfortunately, though tail skin feels tough and those hairs look impenetrable, the equine tail isn’t immune to injury and disease. But conscientious care can make the difference between lush and scraggly.

Pet grooming the tail generally begins with simply brushing out foreign material, snarls and tangles, sometimes with the aid of a detangling product or a simple hair oil. For pleasure riding, this is all that is usually done. Horses used in exhibition or competition may have far more extensive grooming. However, the tail’s main purpose is fly protection, however, certain types of show grooming can inhibit the use of this natural defence.

Tail banging.
Banging a tail means to cut it off blunt at the bottom. Traditionally horses’ tails were banged to avoid them becoming soiled and straggly at the bottom. Horses ridden dressage will often have their tails banged, but if your horse’s tail is on the short side, banging it may only make it look shorter.
Banging a tail is not just a matter of chopping it off at the bottom. Before you begin pay attention to how high your horse carries its tail while it is trotting. Some horses carry their tails quite high, while other keep their tails flatter. You want the cut to be parallel to the ground while the horse is moving. If you just chop it off while the horse is standing, when the horse is moving the tail will look uneven. The banged tail should end about 4” (10cm) to 5” (12cm) below the hocks. Any shorter may detract from the look of the tail. You may want to mark it with a little piece of masking tape or a chalk mark before you cut. Better to leave the tail too long, than cut it off too short.

Tail clipping.
Sometimes, the sides of the dock are clipped, to a point about halfway down the dock, where the tail “turns over” when the horse is in motion, and the rest of the tail is kept long. This results in a finer appearance, and shows off the horse’s hindquarters. This style of pet grooming is most commonly seen in dressage and at times in eventing. Polo horses played in competition often have their docks trimmed or shaved, and skirt is braided, folded up on the tailbone, and tied off with a lock of hair excluded from the braid, taped, or both.

When pet grooming, first secure your horse up and then pick out its hooves. After this you can begin your horse grooming at the poll region on the left side and slowly work back over the whole body. Repeat on the other side. Initially, use a rubber or plastic curry comb (depending on your horse’s coat type) to remove mud and scurf . Then use the body brush and curry comb. Always use a body brush on your horses mane and tail if it is fine or pulled.

A curry comb or grooming mitt.
The purpose of a curry comb is to break up clumps of mud and remove loose hair. It is made from rubber or plastic with short teeth on one side. It is the first of several brushes used when pet grooming a horse’s coat. Use a rubber curry comb on finer, clipped or summer coats, for removing mud, sweat or scurf. They are also good for massaging and removing hairs when losing winter coats. Use the massager sets in a similar way, the one with the spikes for very coarse long winter coats and the finer one for finer, clipped or summer coats. Use plastic curry combs on coarser and winter coats. Plastic curry combs are excellent for brushing off mud and can also be used on thick manes. Don’t use curry combs or massagers on legs or sensitive areas. Metal curry combs are for cleaning the body brush.

A body brush with fairly stiff bristles.
A body brush is wide and flat with a strap across the back and short vegetable fibres. Use this after the curry comb to shine and polish your horse’s coat. The body brush is the main pet grooming brush. It is generally used for cleaning the coat, removing scurf and dust, and for brushing out the mane and tail. The close-set hairs of the brush are designed to reach right through the coat to the skin beneath, lifting and removing dirt and creating a shine. Use brief, circular strokes over the body, finishing each stroke in the direction of the lay of the hair. Use this in conjunction with a metal curry comb – after several strokes of the body brush draw the brush across the teeth of the curry comb to remove the dirt. You could also use a rubber or plastic curry comb to keep your body brush clean.

A mane and tail comb.
Use a wide-toothed plastic or metal comb on horses with short, pulled manes. You can also use the mane comb to pull the mane. Use a dandy brush for long manes and tails. Particularly long manes and tails on show horses are often picked out by hand to avoid breakage of the hairs. Plastic combs cause less breakage than metal ones.

Grooming rag or towel, also called a Stable Rubber.
To give a final polish to a horse’s coat use linen, towelling or comparable type of cloth. You could also use it after a ride to help get rid of sweat.

A hoof pick.
Hoof picks are used by moving downwards from heel to the toe, dislodging anything that has caught on the point of the pick. Next clear the cleft of the frog. Check shoes for any wear or risen clenches. It saves time if you teach your horse to pick up his feet.

A clean sponge or soft cloth.
When brushing your horses head, put his headcollar around his neck but make sure that he is in a place that he can’t move around in very much. Use one hand to keep his head steady and gently brush the face with the other, avoiding eyes and going gently on sensitive areas. Pay plenty of attention to the ears, gullet and lower jaw. Finally gently sponge clean the eyes, and then the muzzle and nostrils. Keep a second sponge for the final phase of pet grooming, to clean round and under the horses dock.

Horses can often become hot and bothered during the winter months, their coats grow long and they find it hard to keep cool. Clipping your horse is considered good horse care and you will help them to regulate their temperature. The most common style of clipping in the winter is blanket clipping but another widespread and highly successful clip is the body clip. Horse body clipping is generally used to help your horse lose its final coat as the summer months approach and keep it neat and tidy.

Before you think about pet grooming by clipping your horse you need to establish why and ultimately what sort of clip you need to give your horse. Clipping ensures your horse remains healthy and comfortable. Make sure you know when you should start clipping your horse and continue to maintain his clip for the correct period of time.

Should I consider pet grooming by clipping or trimming?

If your horse gets too hot during exercise, is overheating or is in danger of becoming chilled while waiting to dry in cold weather you should definitely consider clipping. Some horses and ponies will grow very heavy coats all year round and after the smallest amount of work will break out into a sweat – having a heavy coat then makes it incredibly difficult for them to dry out quickly, clipping these sort of horses or ponies is a must and can be carried out when horse grooming.

Types of body clips include:

Body clip or Full body clip: The horse’s entire body is clipped, including the head and legs. It provides the most “natural” clip, resembling a horse’s normal summer coat, plus it is a relatively straightforward clip for a groom to complete. However, it provides the least amount of natural protection for the horse.

Hunter clip: The entire horse is clipped, except for the legs and a patch of hair under the saddle. This clip traces back to the hunt field, and is still used there today, as it provides extra protection to the back of the horse (essential during several hours of hunting) as well as to the lower legs (which may be cut by brambles), but still allows for the horse to stay cool while galloping.

Blanket clip: This type of clip would suit a horse that has regular exercise, is turned-out in the field and does various events at the weekends. The coat is removed completely from the head, neck and flanks, leaving only an area of hair that looks like an exercise sheet over the back and hindquarters and on the legs. The hair on the legs is left mainly for warmth and protection.

Trace clip: Varies, but generally the horse is clipped from under his throat, down along the jugular groove, and then clipped half-way up the shoulder and belly. Variations include clipping higher along the neck, shoulder, and belly, and clipping a strip off the side of the hindquarter, to the buttock. Additionally, many clip a strip half-way up the cheek to the muzzle. The back and legs are left unclipped. The clip is named after the traces of the carriage, as it follows a similar pattern. The amount of hair removed is based on the work the horse is in, the amount he sweats during work, and the areas where he sweats the most. It is most commonly seen used by eventers.

Chaser Clip: The hair is removed from under the belly upwards between and around the front legs and up a line on the neck, (dependent on how high you require the line to be). This clip and variations are often seen in thoroughbred yards where the horse is unknown or is likely to kick. It is useful on a youngster, which is being clipped for the first time as it does not take as long as the others and is practical.

Strip clip’ or Belly clip: A good pet grooming clip for horses and ponies, which are living out through the winter but which may be used for the odd hack at weekends or during an occasional light evening. Useful for the stabled horse that feels the cold or is involved in light work. It is still necessary to rugged up field kept or stabled horses.

As you can see clippers are essential horse accessories!