Pet grooming guide

How to clean your dog’s ears

Having their ears cleaned is one aspect of pet grooming that many dogs don’t enjoy which, unfortunately, can make it a tricky procedure to carry out. It is very important that you learn to make the experience one that your dog gets pleasure from.

1. First, get your dog into a position where it can’t squirm around too much. Dogs’ ears are very sensitive and you wouldn’t want him to move while you are working and cause damage. A good idea is to get a friend to help by holding onto the dog collar while you are working.
2. Squeeze plenty of the ear cleaner gently into the ear canal, until it starts to overflow. Then feel for the tube of cartilage beneath the ear and rub this to help spread out the ear cleaner. It should make a nice squelchy noise!
3. Massage the ears very gently for 30 to 45 seconds and then give him some space to shake his head to rid his ears of some of the wax, dirt and cleaner that has built up. The massage is something that most dogs love and they will press their head towards your hands to show how much they are enjoying it.
4. Clean cotton balls or medical kit gauze pads are ideal to use to carefully remove any fluid that did not come out when your dog shook his head. Be warned! There can be a lot of wax and dirt in dog ears and it can come in many different colours. If you start to get more than usual or it has turned a bloody or very bright colour then take him to see your vet as it may mean that he has developed an infection. Always use sterile, all natural cotton that is flexible and soft.

How to clean your dog’s teeth.

Taking care of your dog’s teeth on a regular basis at home and considerably reduce the number of times that they will need to be cleaned by a vet.

1. Before starting to clean your dog’s teeth it is important to be completely prepared with all the dog care equipment that is required.
2. There are 2 options for a toothbrush. One is a finger toothbrush that you can place over your finger and the other is a long handled, soft bristled specialist dog toothbrush. Generally they have an angled head to allow easier access. You can buy dog toothbrushes at any store that sells pet grooming supplies.
3. You will need to buy toothpaste that has been specifically made for dogs as they have special plaque controlling enzymes and some fluoride to help control bacteria. Do not use human toothpaste as it contains ingredients which are bad for dogs. Push the paste down between the bristles so that it spends maximum time next to the dog’s teeth.
4. Choose a calm, quiet time and sit in a position that will give you easy access to your dog’s teeth.
5. When you first start to brush his teeth just gently wipe at the teeth with some gauze, gradually moving on to the use of warm water and eventually, toothpaste.
6. Clean around the whole mouth, brushing each tooth in turn. Make sure that you don’t miss out the back dog teeth as this can be a problem area.
7. Dog teeth cleaning should be carried out once a per week as part of your pet grooming routine but still make sure that you visit the vet once a year to have them checked over and, if necessary, cleaned professionally.

Flexible and strong, the horse’s tail is part of his spinal column. It is made up of approximately 18 vertebrae – some horses have more, others have fewer. The bones are progressively smaller from the root of the tail to the tip; the last one is pointed. The best method of pet grooming to maintain a tail’s good looks and function is to keep it clean and in top condition. Unfortunately, though tail skin feels tough and those hairs look impenetrable, the equine tail isn’t immune to injury and disease. But conscientious care can make the difference between lush and scraggly.

Pet grooming the tail generally begins with simply brushing out foreign material, snarls and tangles, sometimes with the aid of a detangling product or a simple hair oil. For pleasure riding, this is all that is usually done. Horses used in exhibition or competition may have far more extensive grooming. However, the tail’s main purpose is fly protection, however, certain types of show grooming can inhibit the use of this natural defence.

Tail banging.
Banging a tail means to cut it off blunt at the bottom. Traditionally horses’ tails were banged to avoid them becoming soiled and straggly at the bottom. Horses ridden dressage will often have their tails banged, but if your horse’s tail is on the short side, banging it may only make it look shorter.
Banging a tail is not just a matter of chopping it off at the bottom. Before you begin pay attention to how high your horse carries its tail while it is trotting. Some horses carry their tails quite high, while other keep their tails flatter. You want the cut to be parallel to the ground while the horse is moving. If you just chop it off while the horse is standing, when the horse is moving the tail will look uneven. The banged tail should end about 4” (10cm) to 5” (12cm) below the hocks. Any shorter may detract from the look of the tail. You may want to mark it with a little piece of masking tape or a chalk mark before you cut. Better to leave the tail too long, than cut it off too short.

Tail clipping.
Sometimes, the sides of the dock are clipped, to a point about halfway down the dock, where the tail “turns over” when the horse is in motion, and the rest of the tail is kept long. This results in a finer appearance, and shows off the horse’s hindquarters. This style of pet grooming is most commonly seen in dressage and at times in eventing. Polo horses played in competition often have their docks trimmed or shaved, and skirt is braided, folded up on the tailbone, and tied off with a lock of hair excluded from the braid, taped, or both.

There are a wide variety of tools available for use when pet grooming your dog, all of which can be bought from local pet stores. The most useful are a curry comb for overall brushing and removal of loose dead hair and skin, a shedding blade to remove coat shed and a de-matting comb to help remove tangles.

Curry comb
Curry combs stimulate your dog’s skin to produce natural oils, which help to keep the fur clean and healthy. Frequent use of a curry comb during pet grooming will ensure a shiny, glossy coat and will also keep the skin clean and healthy too. As well as stimulating the skin, the comb will encourage blood flow and remove flakes of dead skin. If your dog has long hair then the comb can be used to remove tangles and matts, which can be uncomfortable and unhealthy.
The gentlest curry brush is made from rubber or a rubberised material. The rubber is bendable, allowing the comb to flex with the animal’s body.

Shedding blade
A shedding blade is a looped piece of metal with the ends held together by a handle. One side of the blade has small, rounded teeth which catch hold of and remove coat shed and help to minimise the occurrence of matting. Many pet grooming experts recommend getting a shedding blade since it is especially good for keeping dogs with short coats from shedding all over your house. Shedding blades are primarily used in the pet grooming of shorter haired dogs as they are less effective on long haired coats. Always use a light touch when using the blade as it is possible to cause harm to the coat or skin if you press too hard.The first few times you use a shedding blade on your pet, keep a good watch on the dog’s skin. If they seem to show signs of irritation or begin to scratch, you may need a softer brush or a gentler technique with the blade.

De-matting comb
Even regularly brushed dogs develop matts and it’s very important to remove them before they become out of control. There are many styles of de-matting comb or rake and the one you choose will depend entirely on the type of coat that your dog has so, for example, a dog with a thick, curly coat will need a much wider toothed comb than a dog with a long, fine coat. The best method of removing the matts while pet grooming is to put your fingers between the dog’s skin and the matt and to then ease the de-matting comb gently through.

When pet grooming, first secure your horse up and then pick out its hooves. After this you can begin your horse grooming at the poll region on the left side and slowly work back over the whole body. Repeat on the other side. Initially, use a rubber or plastic curry comb (depending on your horse’s coat type) to remove mud and scurf . Then use the body brush and curry comb. Always use a body brush on your horses mane and tail if it is fine or pulled.

A curry comb or grooming mitt.
The purpose of a curry comb is to break up clumps of mud and remove loose hair. It is made from rubber or plastic with short teeth on one side. It is the first of several brushes used when pet grooming a horse’s coat. Use a rubber curry comb on finer, clipped or summer coats, for removing mud, sweat or scurf. They are also good for massaging and removing hairs when losing winter coats. Use the massager sets in a similar way, the one with the spikes for very coarse long winter coats and the finer one for finer, clipped or summer coats. Use plastic curry combs on coarser and winter coats. Plastic curry combs are excellent for brushing off mud and can also be used on thick manes. Don’t use curry combs or massagers on legs or sensitive areas. Metal curry combs are for cleaning the body brush.

A body brush with fairly stiff bristles.
A body brush is wide and flat with a strap across the back and short vegetable fibres. Use this after the curry comb to shine and polish your horse’s coat. The body brush is the main pet grooming brush. It is generally used for cleaning the coat, removing scurf and dust, and for brushing out the mane and tail. The close-set hairs of the brush are designed to reach right through the coat to the skin beneath, lifting and removing dirt and creating a shine. Use brief, circular strokes over the body, finishing each stroke in the direction of the lay of the hair. Use this in conjunction with a metal curry comb – after several strokes of the body brush draw the brush across the teeth of the curry comb to remove the dirt. You could also use a rubber or plastic curry comb to keep your body brush clean.

A mane and tail comb.
Use a wide-toothed plastic or metal comb on horses with short, pulled manes. You can also use the mane comb to pull the mane. Use a dandy brush for long manes and tails. Particularly long manes and tails on show horses are often picked out by hand to avoid breakage of the hairs. Plastic combs cause less breakage than metal ones.

Grooming rag or towel, also called a Stable Rubber.
To give a final polish to a horse’s coat use linen, towelling or comparable type of cloth. You could also use it after a ride to help get rid of sweat.

A hoof pick.
Hoof picks are used by moving downwards from heel to the toe, dislodging anything that has caught on the point of the pick. Next clear the cleft of the frog. Check shoes for any wear or risen clenches. It saves time if you teach your horse to pick up his feet.

A clean sponge or soft cloth.
When brushing your horses head, put his headcollar around his neck but make sure that he is in a place that he can’t move around in very much. Use one hand to keep his head steady and gently brush the face with the other, avoiding eyes and going gently on sensitive areas. Pay plenty of attention to the ears, gullet and lower jaw. Finally gently sponge clean the eyes, and then the muzzle and nostrils. Keep a second sponge for the final phase of pet grooming, to clean round and under the horses dock.

Pet grooming care for your cat’s coat is very important as this aids in the removal of loose and discarded undercoat, prevents hairballs, improves circulation, prevents parasitic infestations, is a good bonding experience and promotes frequent health checks. Different breeds require varying types of grooming. Some need brushing and combing daily, others less often. Most cats spend a large part of their day grooming themselves.

Start getting your kitten used to being groomed from a very young age and slowly increase the amount of time you spend grooming your kitten until it is quite happy to allow you to brush it. Soon the kitten will love being groomed and will come to see it as part of its daily routine. If you approach grooming as a chore then so will your cat.

When you are grooming your cat don’t forget to check its ears, nose, mouth, eyes, nails and feet. It is also a perfect opportunity to check it over for any bumps and lumps. Check the skin by parting the hair, to see if your cat has any skin problems such as fleas or any red, sore or inflamed areas that may require treatment.

A cat’s hair can be short or long with different degrees of coat type within these two types. You will need to give the coats of long haired cats a lot of attention, brushing them at least once every day. Use a wide toothed comb to remove any dead hair. When you find a knot or matt in the fur, separate it with your fingers, gently and slowly from the root up. Try not to resort to scissors, but if you have to cut into the middle of the knot and try to loosen it again by hand. You may have to have a very matted cat shaved by a veterinary surgeon under general anaesthetic or sedation. If you decide that you would like a long haired cat then you need to be completely sure that you are willing to put in the time pet grooming it. Far too frequently these cats have to attend the vet’s because their coats are matted.

You won’t need to spend anything like as long pet grooming a short haired cats as the long haired varieties and you will probably only need to comb the cat thoroughly once a week. Use a short toothed comb or a rubber brush to remove the dead hairs. Some short haired cats have delicate coats and skin so be cautious when using combs and brushes that you are not damaging the cat in any way.

Loosen dead hairs by hand before you begin to use a brush or comb on your cat. Run your fingers through the fur in the opposite direction to the way to the hair grows. This stimulates the skin’s natural oils to give a nice, healthy shine to the fur. After doing this then you can use the pet grooming equipment best suited for your cat’s coat type.

It is really not necessary to bath a cat as, if it has been thoroughly and correctly groomed, the natural oils in the cats fur will always give it a shiny gleam. Bathing a cat will only make matts and knots worse, making the fur totally unmanageable.

If your cat has a specific skin complaint or is suffering with fleas that traditional remedies can’t clear the ensure that you use shampoo that is suitable for your cat’s skin. Use a specific cat shampoo bought from a pet store. These cat shampoos are easier to rinse out and make less lather. Make certain that you wet the coat completely before adding the shampoo.

Pet grooming is an important part of dog care. Frequency of grooming will depend on factors such as age, breed and general health of the dog. Some breeds will need daily grooming while others will require significantly less than this, but regular grooming helps to make sure that the dog is clean, healthy and comfortable. While a lot of dogs shed, others don’t and instead their fur grows much like human hair and therefore needs trimming.

• The length of your dog’s coat will dictate how often he needs to be brushed but long haired dogs will require brushing every day. Brushing helps to keep the fur shiny, clean and free of any matting, which can be a cause of irritation. Most dogs enjoy pet grooming and often eagerly await combing.

• Ensure that your dog’s face is clear of long hairs, which can get in their eyes and cause eye irritations.

• Like humans, dogs can suffer from ear infections, especially when they have floppy ears which cover the ear canal allowing bacteria to breed in the warm, damp environment. If their ears aren’t cleaned regularly then they can suffer from repeated serious ear infections. A healthy ear should look and smell clean. Any discharge or excessive scratching should be investigated immediately.

• Dogs frequently suffer from dental disease and so you will need to check your dog’s mouth and teeth regularly to help you spot any problems before they become serious. Dogs often don’t like the pet grooming involved in brushing and so try at least to check for chips, tartar or excessive wear.

• One of the most difficult pet grooming chores is clipping your dog’s nails. Ensure that you handle a puppy’s feet regularly so that they don’t mind you holding their feet when you cut their nails. It is very important that, even if your dog hates having his nails clipped, you trim them regularly so that they don’t suffer the pain of walking on overgrown or in-growing nails.

• Most dogs will need a bath at least a few times per year, depending on its breed and lifestyle. Bathing helps remove oil, dirt and old hair from the skin. Many dogs enjoy their baths and you can use it as an opportunity to check for fleas and ticks. Dogs that enjoy regular swims in canals, rivers or the sea need to be rinsed after every outing.

• Many dog owners don’t ever check their dog’s bottom but it is important final place to check. Faeces can get caught in the hair around the anus, causing an obstruction. Also, the glands either side of the anus can get blocked and painful and a common sign of this is scooting.